How to Plant Lemon Grass: Tropical Herb Thrives in Containers or Ground

Planting lemon grass is like inviting a slice of tropical sunshine into your garden or windowsill—it’s shockingly easy once you know the right moves. 🌱 I used to think this herb demanded a greenhouse, but my first batch thrived in a simple pot on my patio, and now I’ve got three clumps going strong.

The secret isn’t fancy soil or special tools—it’s about mimicking its natural habitat with just a few key adjustments.

You’ll need well-draining soil, a sunny spot (at least 6 hours of light daily), and either a container with drainage holes or a spot in your garden where water won’t pool.

Lemon grass loves warmth and moisture but hates soggy roots, so think of it like a thirsty friend who needs good drainage. For containers, a 12-inch pot works perfectly for one plant, while garden beds need about 18 inches of space between clumps to give them room to spread.

Once planted, you’ll see those signature pale green stalks shooting up within weeks, and the citrusy aroma when you brush past them is unbeatable.

The first harvest comes in as little as 3 months, and with proper care, one plant can last for years—just divide the clumps every couple of years to keep them vigorous.

Whether you’re growing it in a pot on your balcony or tucked into a garden bed, lemon grass rewards patience with bold flavor and lush growth.

Fair warning: Overwatering is the fastest way to kill it, so let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings. And if you’re growing indoors, a south-facing window or grow light is non-negotiable—this tropical herb won’t tolerate dim corners.

With these simple steps, you’ll have fresh lemongrass for curries, teas, or cocktails in no time, and your neighbors will be asking where you got your magic herb.

What you need

Step-by-Step instructions for planting lemon grass

Here's the simple method I use to grow fragrant, fast-growing lemon grass year after year.

Lemon grass thrives in warmth and sun, so pick a location that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. If planting in containers, use the 5-gallon pots from your supplies—they provide enough room for roots to spread while keeping the plant manageable. For ground planting, choose a spot with well-draining soil, or mix 2 parts potting mix with 1 part perlite to improve drainage if your soil is heavy.

Fill the pot or planting area with the potting mix until it's about 1 inch below the rim. Tap the container gently to settle the soil, then water it thoroughly until water runs freely from the drainage holes. This ensures the roots will find moisture immediately when you plant.

Take the 3 lemon grass stalks and trim off the lower 3-4 inches of each stalk, just above a node where roots will form. This is the part that will grow roots quickly. Remove any dried or yellow leaves from the bottom of the stalks—clean cuttings root faster and stay healthier.

Place one stalk in each pot or space them 6 inches apart in the ground. Push the trimmed end 1-2 inches deep into the soil, firming it gently around the stalk. If using containers, you’ll have 3 healthy plants ready to grow. Water lightly after planting to help settle the soil around the stalks.

Lemon grass loves bright light and warm temperatures. Keep it in a spot where it gets full sun (or under a grow light if indoors). Water the plant once a week, letting the top 1-2 inches of soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering is the biggest mistake—it causes the roots to rot. You’ll know it’s time to water when the soil feels dry to the touch.

After 4-6 weeks, you’ll see new growth at the base of the stalks. This is your signal that the roots have taken hold. At this point, you can start harvesting the outer stalks, leaving the center ones to keep growing. Just cut the stalks at the base with a clean pair of scissors or pruners.

To keep your lemon grass thriving, harvest every 2-3 months by cutting the stalks back to 2-3 inches above the base. This encourages fresh, tender growth and prevents the plant from becoming woody. Always use clean scissors to avoid spreading disease.

If growing in containers, fertilize once a month during the growing season with a balanced liquid fertilizer (like the 1 bottle in your supplies). For ground-planted lemon grass, a light application of compost in the spring will provide enough nutrients. Watch for yellowing leaves—they’re a sign your plant needs more nutrients or water.

Tips & tricks for perfect lemon grass planting

Here's what I've learned after growing lemon grass for years—these little tricks make all the difference between healthy plants and struggling starts.

Root Formation Secret: When trimming your 3 lemon grass stalks in Step 2, look for the nodes—those little bumps along the stalk where roots will sprout. Trim just above a node, and you'll see roots forming in 2-3 weeks instead of waiting for the full 4-6 weeks. I always check the stalks before trimming to make sure I'm cutting above fresh, healthy nodes. This speeds up your growing process significantly!

Soil Preparation Tip: In Step 1, don't skip mixing that 1 part perlite with your potting mix if your soil doesn't drain well. Perlite creates air pockets that prevent waterlogging, which is lemon grass's biggest enemy. I've seen plants die from root rot after just two weeks when planted in heavy, compacted soil. For containers, use the 5-gallon pots—they're just the right size to give roots room to spread without becoming top-heavy.

Watering Wisdom: The once-a-week watering in Step 3 is perfect, but here's the trick: always water in the morning. This gives the soil time to dry out completely before nightfall, which prevents fungal growth. I stick my finger 1-2 inches into the soil—if it feels dry, that's your cue. Overwatering is the #1 reason lemon grass fails, so better to underwater slightly than drown it.

Harvesting Hack: When you're ready to harvest those outer stalks after 4-6 weeks, cut them at a 45-degree angle just above the base. This creates a larger surface area for new growth to emerge. I always use clean scissors to avoid spreading disease, and I leave the center stalks untouched—they'll keep producing while the outer ones regrow. This method keeps your plants productive for years!