Cutting Monkey Grass: Sharp Cuts for Year-Round Control

Cutting monkey grass spreads faster than weeds—but that’s exactly why it’s the ultimate ground cover. 🌿 I’ve used it to smother weeds in my shady garden patches, and once it takes hold, it’s nearly impossible to pull out.

The secret lies in how you cut and maintain it, which keeps it dense, lush, and under control all year.

This grass thrives in partial shade where most plants struggle, and it handles drought like a champ once established. You don’t need fancy soil—just something well-draining—and a pair of sharp shears.

The real magic happens when you prune it back regularly, which encourages thicker growth and prevents it from turning into an unruly jungle.

By the end of summer, you’ll have a velvety green carpet that chokes out weeds, stabilizes soil, and stays vibrant even when you forget to water it.

It’s perfect for borders, containers, or even steep slopes where other plants would slide away. Here’s how to keep it looking its best without the hassle.

Whether you’re starting from cuttings or seeds, the key is patience—it spreads quickly but needs time to fill in. Once it’s established, though, it’s one of the most low-maintenance, high-impact plants in your garden. Let’s get those shears ready!

What you need

How to prune liriope (cutting monkey grass) for bushy growth

Here’s the method I use to keep my liriope thick, vibrant, and under control—no more straggly edges!

Wait until after the last frost when new growth emerges—usually mid-April to early May in most climates. You’ll see fresh, bright green shoots pushing through the soil. This timing ensures you’re not cutting back dormant growth, which won’t bounce back as well.

Use sharp pruning shears (not scissors) to make clean cuts. I like to start by removing any dead or brown leaves first—these are easy to spot as they’ll be crispy or hollow. Toss them in the compost bin; they’ll break down quickly.

Here’s the thing—if you cut too early, you risk damaging tender new shoots. If you wait too long, the grass gets leggy. Watch for 3-4 inches of new growth before you begin. That’s your signal it’s ready for a trim!

Stand back and assess the overall shape. Liriope thrives when trimmed into a slightly rounded mound, not flat like a lawn. I use hand pruners to snip the outer edges first, creating a natural curve. Think of it like giving your plant a haircut—you want even layers, not uneven tufts.

Cut about 1/3 of the height from the top. For most varieties, that’s roughly 2-3 inches off the tallest stems. Avoid cutting into the hard, woody base—this part won’t regrow. If you nick it, the plant might develop bare spots.

Real talk: If your liriope looks sparse in the center, this is the perfect time to thin out congested areas. Use your fingers to gently separate any crowded shoots and replant them elsewhere. This encourages fuller regrowth in the original spot.

About 6-8 weeks after your first cut, do a quick maintenance trim if the edges get ragged. This is more about tidying than reshaping. Look for stems that flop outward or leaves that exceed the main clump. Snip these back to 1-2 inches above the soil line to keep the plant compact.

I like to use clean, sharp shears for this step—dull blades tear leaves, which invites disease. After trimming, give the area a light watering to help the plant recover. You’ll notice new growth filling in within 2-3 weeks if the conditions are right.

Watch for yellowing leaves after trimming. This is normal for a few days as the plant adjusts, but if it persists beyond a week, your liriope might need more sunlight or better drainage. Adjust your care routine accordingly!

In late October to early November, before the first hard frost, do a final trim. Cut back all dead or brown foliage to the base. You don’t need to worry about the green leaves—they’ll turn brown naturally as winter sets in. This step is all about preventing debris buildup, which can harbor pests or diseases.

Leave the healthy green leaves until they yellow on their own. These provide some winter protection for the crown. Once they’re fully brown and crispy, you can remove them entirely. This ensures a clean slate for spring regrowth.

Here’s where it gets fun—after your fall cleanup, spread a 1-inch layer of mulch around the base (if you have it). This insulates the roots and keeps the soil moist during winter. Your liriope will thank you with vibrant new shoots come spring!

Tips & tricks for perfect liriope pruning

Transforming your liriope from straggly to showstopping takes just a few smart moves—here’s how to get it right every time!

Timing is Everything: That mid-April to early May window is non-negotiable for your first cut. I’ve learned the hard way that cutting too early damages tender new shoots, while waiting too long lets the grass get leggy. Pro tip: Check for 3-4 inches of new growth—that’s your perfect cue! The plant’s natural growth rhythm tells you exactly when to act.

The Shape Secret: When you’re shearing those clumps in Step 2, think of it like sculpting a topiary. Aim for that slightly rounded mound shape—never flat like a lawn. For stubborn overgrowth, I use my fingers to gently separate congested shoots and replant them nearby. This simple technique prevents bare spots and encourages fuller regrowth in the original area.

Tool Maintenance Matters: Your pruning shears and hand pruners are your best friends, but only if they’re sharp! Dull blades tear leaves, creating entry points for diseases. I clean mine with rubbing alcohol after each use and sharpen them annually. For mid-season trims, I always use clean tools to prevent any chance of contamination—especially important when you’re snipping back to that 1-2 inches above soil line.

Fall Prep Payoff: That final cleanup in late October to early November isn’t just about tidiness—it’s winter insurance. Removing all dead foliage prevents debris buildup that can harbor pests. The 1-inch mulch layer you add afterward acts like a cozy blanket for the roots, keeping them moist through winter. Trust me, your spring liriope will thank you with vibrant new shoots!

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to cut monkey grass?

For optimal control, trim monkey grass (like Lippia nodiflora or World Grass) during its active growth phase—typically spring through early fall. Avoid cutting in winter unless it’s actively spreading, as cold stress can make it harder to eradicate. Pro tip: Mow low but not too low (1–2 inches) to weaken roots without harming surrounding plants.

How often should I cut it to stop regrowth?

Consistency is key! Cut monkey grass every 2–4 weeks during peak growth to prevent seed production and root spread. Warning: If you skip sessions, it’ll bounce back faster. For stubborn patches, combine mowing with manual removal (digging out roots) or herbicides like glyphosate for tough cases.

Can I use a regular lawnmower, or do I need special tools?

A sharp, heavy-duty lawnmower (or even string trimmers for edges) works fine for most monkey grass. For thick, woody stems, a pruner or hedge trimmer may be needed. Pro tip: Dull blades tear grass, making regrowth easier—sharpen your blades seasonally!

What if cutting doesn’t work? Are there alternatives?

If mowing alone fails, try these layered strategies:

• Herbicides: Spot-treat with glyphosate (follow label instructions!) for large infestations.
• Smothering: Cover patches with cardboard + mulch for 4–6 weeks to block sunlight.
• Manual removal: Dig out roots (wear gloves—it’s spiky!).
• Preventative: Improve soil health with competitive ground covers (like clover) to crowd it out.

Note: Monkey grass is highly invasive—act fast to avoid a full-blown takeover!

Will cutting monkey grass harm my lawn or garden?

Not if done right! Monkey grass is aggressive—cutting it low and often actually protects nearby plants by starving its roots. Just avoid scalping (cutting too short), which can damage soil and encourage weed seeds. For delicate gardens, edge with a string trimmer to minimize collateral damage.